Charlottesville Drywall & Sheetrock
Repair & Installation

Practice, Practice and more practice! The more you do, the better you will become at finishing drywall!

Hanging sheetrock, or drywall (the same thing) is a hard job. Drywall is heavy, and in full sheets, awkward to handle by yourself, especially if you're installing it on a celiling. Like every problem, there is a solution!

drywall liftThis handy tool is a drywall lift. You still have to pick up the drywall to get it on the lift, but that's not too difficult if you plan properly. Once on the lift, you simply tilt the sheet and crank the handle. It works great for walls and ceilings, and makes hanging sheetrock yourself a do-able job!

You'll most often see drywall hung horizontally as 4X8 and 4X12 boards. It comes in large sizes, but you'll need several people to help and it really can be miserable working with anything over 12 footers. 9 times out of 10 we recommend 8 foot boards. You may have a few more seams to finish, but they go quickly and it is a lot easier to tape than to hang in some cases. There are times to hang the boards vertically. For example, we were showing a homeowner how to finish a basement with a 9 foot 8 inch wall. We bought 12 foot boards and cut them to 9 foot 7 inches and stood them up vertically. It actually saved us quite a few seams to deal with, and made for an easier time finishing the tapered edge seams of the boards. Drywall has two edges, the long edge which i tapered and the short edge which is not. The tapered edge provides for a slight depression along the seam to fill with joint compound and tape and makes it much easier to get a perfect seam than do the butt edges. Cutting the boards an inch shorter than the actual height allows us to keep the drywall off the floor and gives us a place to use the toe lift tool to make sure we get the board tight against the celiling for a nice seam.

sheetrockThis job was done by hanging 12 foot boards horozontally. Notice that the vertical seams on the bottom board do not line up with the top board. Staggering the seams makes it less likely to highlight an issue with the framing that will show up on the wall. It is also thought to add a bit more strength to the wall, but we're not convinced of that. Drywall should be screwed in place, never nailed. As it is you are bound to see a few screw heads pop up over time as the framing moves a bit due to changes in atmospheric conditions like humidity. With nails, we can guarantee you a bunch of nail pops. The just don't resist movement as well as screws do. You should also glue the drywall to the framing with a nice bead of drywall adhesvie. Using adhesive allows you to limit the number of fasteners used and thereby reduce the amount of joint compound work to hide the fasteners. It also adds strength to resist movement and helps maintain the integrity of your seams.

When it comes to seam tape, wo DO NOT use the fiberglass mesh tape you'll see in big box stores. Stick with the paper tape. It is easier to work with and will give you a significantly better result.

Drywall comes in various thicknesses. 1/2 inch and 5/5 inch are the most common and most jobs use the 1/2 inch boards. If your framing is 16 inches on center, then 1/2 inch is what you'll use. If you are doing a curved wall, or a radius, then 3/8 inch board can be used as long as the distance between framing members is 12 inches or less. There is also a fire-rated board that is chemically prepared at the time of manufacture with a fire resistent chemical. This is required, usually in 5/8 inch boards, on all walls that seperate living space from non-living space such as a garage wall. The 5/8" boards will gon inside the garage, with 1/2" board inside the house. Remember that windows and doors are manufactured with 1/2" sheetrock in mind. If you use 5/8 boards inside it will present an issue with trimming out your windows and doors.

Ready to hang?

To get started, just give us a call at (434) 202-4198 in Charlottesville, or use the contact form. Our initial consultation is just $88 and we'll credit you the full amount when you hire us to coach you on installing drywall.

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Contact Frugal DIY

Hang it right!
& Save BIG!

Drywall is inexpensive as far as materials go. A 4X8 i/2 inch board is usually around $7. Joint compound runs close to $13 a pail, and a roll of tape is a few dollars. The labor on drywall is, comparatively speaking, expensive. Contractors charge in the range of $25 to $40 a board to hang and finish ready for paint. You const should be around $10 per board inclusing all accessories like corner bead, tape and joint compound. If you're doing a bsement with 100 boards, that's a $3,000 or more savings when you do it yourself! Expect to save around 60% over all, and maybe a bit more when you see how wasteful drywall contractors can be! Because they get paid by the number of boards they use, they don't usually try to use every piece to it's maximum potential. I've seen a contractor cut a 3 foot piece from an 8 foot board, then bust the remaining 5 foot piece in half and toss it in the dumpster when he needed 6 more 3 foot pieces! There will be more waste than you are prepared for, but if you think before you cut and hang, you'll save another 15% - 20% by doing the work thoughtfully!

Give us a call today at (434) 202-4198 or use the contact form above to get started. Our initial consultation is only $88 and we'll credit that back to you in full when you hire us to teach you how to hang drywall.

 

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